Africa is not a country!

It's just occurred to me that all four members of my immediate family are in different countries of Africa. And having read a lot of recent articles on the state of "Africa", as perpetuated by the international media's view of the continent as a 'big mess' or 'an opportunity' (level of pessimism depending on which paper you are reading and on what day!) it seemed like a good moment to highlight how Africa is not one homogeneous country or unit, and in fact has 54 (including island states) unbelievably different cultures, political outlooks, futures, pasts and potentials.

I am in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC), Goma, to be exact. There is conflict, uncertainty, political passivity and inability to govern, massive corruption, humanitarian crisis growing every day as more and more people are displaced by conflict between  various armed groups (the M23, who have recently hit headlines, but also many Mayi Mayi groups, the FDLR and of course the FARDC- national army- who have a deserved reputation for running away as soon as any threat is real). The DRC is the poorest country in the world, as ranked by the UN's human development index, and yet has enormous mineral resources including gold and coltan (used in mobile phones). The mining companies and the government get richer, while the people get poorer. There are traditionally 2 types of NGO: development NGOs, who help governments ensure the future of their country through long term education, health and social projects; and emergency aid organisations, who come in during or after a natural disaster or a conflict and then leave again when the threat is past and processes have been put in place to sustain the functioning of the community they leave behind. The DRC has been in a state of 'emergency' since the beginning of the Great war in 1998.

Internally Displaced Persons (IDP) camp in North Kivu, DRC,
where citizens live in a permanent state of uncertainty

Emergency aid organisations have been here ever since and continue to provide emergency-type programming. There is no way to "do development" because government systems are not in place and conflict is ongoing. It's a pretty depressing picture with a fairly bleak outlook. There are 2 hopes for the Congo: 1- democratise and put in place a capable government which can oversee the whole country, not just Kinshasa and the mining industry (this won't happen. The country is already "democratic" by name, and Kabila "won" the last election, to great controversy); 2: The international community (including regional powers) cooperate to end the conflict in the country, thereby allowing displaced people to re-root themselves and build their lives and communities once more (the UN, that great symbol of the international community, have been here on a "peacekeeping" mission since 1999, Rwanda and Uganda are currently accused of supporting the rebels, and the rest of the regional powers are engaged in problems in Somalia. So that option doesn't look likely either).

A common sight in the current conflict in North Kivu

You'll notice my use of quotation marks...I have little time for a lot of the rhetoric used to talk about the problems of the DRC- a lot of talk and very little action, particularly from the government here. So perhaps the rebels have a point. It's a controversial opinion, but one I have heard expressed by educated, worldly people. How are they any different to those in Syria or the uprising in Egypt last year? They have a position which is anti-government, but perhaps that is the correct position. They claim to want the best for the citizens, the government have not acted in anyone's best interest other than their own; they claim to want action, the government have responded with one press conference and no promise of negotiation or plans. What the future is for the DRC I do not know, but until something happens, the NGO community will continue to serve the people where the government does not.

John is in Kenya, a country of relative peace and prosperity. A real regional economic powerhouse, with trade and tourism and a huge business sector. The corruption is much publicised, and the result of the last general election was bitterly contested with accusations of vote rigging. But there is so much hope and potential in Kenya, fueled by a society interested in their own future and the future of the generations to come. A politically aware citizenry, whose standard of education is steadily improving, will have the power to hold their government to account and push for real social change. Kenya is also full of entrepreneurial spirit, with many successfully turning what little they have into booming businesses.

Laikipia's stunning scenery

Clearly there is still a need for international aid, and perhaps a good amount sensibly directed through NGOs rather than government budgetary support, as corruption is still rife, but there is a vision of a Kenya free from need, and that goal is in sight, if not in my lifetime, soon enough. The challenge is inequality- Nairobi looks from the outside like any Western city- high rise buildings, green spaces, bustling business areas, men in suits, but you only need to drive down the road to the airport to see the abject poverty that exists alongside this. Economic development alone cannot lift these strata of society out of poverty, it requires genuine political commitment and good social policy. This is why the NGOs must stay, until this sort of political environment is a reality. Kenya is also a beautiful, relaxed country and one that is easy to travel through. From the white sands of Malindi, to the lava-rock-mountains and sparse desert around Turkana to the incredible wildlife of Laikipia, there is so much to see and Kenyans are only too willing to share it, with a smile and a cup of tea/soda/Tusker!

The green city in the sun: Nairobi

Tom is in Egypt, a country previously known for its history, pyramids and hieroglyphics, now famous for, along with Tunisia, sparking the Arab Spring when the population rose up against President Mubarak's regime and beginning a wave of revolutions in the region against autocratic rulers, corruption, human rights abuses, economic problems, unemployment, poverty and self-serving governments. Until early 2011, my fairly disinterested views of Egypt went along the lines of the film franchise "The Mummy" or friends' diving snaps from Sharm el Sheikh. Now, the country signifies social power, peoples' revolution, and the potential for civil society to actually get what they want, and the sign that the balance of power can indeed be tipped away from autocracy and corruption. Egypt is the home of the oldest known civilisation, a people who created technology that would then be forgotten until relatively modern times, a sentiment reflected in the caption to this image of the uprising in Tahrir Square last year:

Gill is in Ethiopia, one of my top 5 dream places to visit (along with Mali, Jordan, India and Palestine). I am very jealous that she is there, taking in the amazing history and culture of the country, from Coptic churches, to statues of Emperor Haile Selassie, drinking incredible coffee and seeing spectacular scenery. Part of the reason I so want to go to Ethiopia is because I don't really understand it. As children, if we learn about "Africa" at all, we either learn about colonialism or wildlife, neither of which Ethiopia is famed for. So it is somewhat of an anomaly, and the history does not follow the 'usual' path of an "African" country. The one country to evade colonisation, only briefly becoming an Italian protectorate, Ethiopia has none of the problems of being a previous colony. It is now the region's diplomatic centre, with the AU headquarters being in Addis, it is still recovering from massive famine and as a result retains quite high levels of poverty, but is also known for governmental commitment to overcoming inequality and advancing as a nation state. 

Ancient ruins at Lalibela- Ethiopia's rich religious history

Recent conflicts in the South has erupted over ethnic differences, but the chances are this will not escalate into full scale tribal war as in the DRC or Kenya's post election violence in 2008/9. It is the cradle of mankind, the spiritual home of the Rastafari movement and the only African country to have undergone a period of communist rule (post Selassie, the Derg, a Marxist military junta, came to power, but were blighted by coups, famines, and a huge conflict with the opposition, where the Derg were supported by global red armies and thousands were killed). The famine and Live-Aid followed, and that is the image of Ethiopia which probably sticks in the public's minds. In reality, it is a country rich in culture and history, stunning ancient architecture and geographical features. The film and music industries are booming and fuel Ethiopia's civil movements, with film makers, poets and singers often speaking about political and social issues.

Not just famine and poverty- the reality of Ethiopia's beautiful landscapes
(Simien Mountains)

So there you have it, four massively different countries in one continent. When the media speaks of "Africa", ask "which one?"