International Women's Day....Masai Mamas on motorbikes

I love this picture of Paulina on a quad bike.

Being a Masai woman it is  tough to break out of the submissive  stereotype.. but Paulina did it with a vengeance when she became the first woman on the ranch with a driving licence 7 years ago - also proving that she is her father's daughter!
With her trainings in massage and beauty therapy she broke new ground.
But it was listening to her opinions onKenyan elections and politicians yesterday that I realised that she is more of an independent thinker than any of us.

What Kenya needs is more Paulina's in elected positions. Unfortunately these elections don't look as if women have made the gains needed- apart from the allocated women reps.

Let us all work for a fairer representation for Paulina's daughter.

Samburu Ceremony

Lentille accountant James and Lentille High School student Vincent

This week the Samburu clan ceremony for the new age set of junior elders took place. This clan chose their new President and Vice President and gave their ceremony the name of "Lmuget Le Nkarna"  The new age set is "Lkuponu" means "adding up".  Such a ceremony only happens once every 15 years  (for each Clan) which is the length of the age set. 

The ceremony was conducted in a temporary boma constructed by the mothers of the morani over the course of a week, on the sweltering Kipsing plateau… hard to see a blade of grass as temperatures soared to 38 Celsius in the shade… only there was no shade. Those mothers are just so tough and resilient- bringing the animals with them many have walked two or three days to get here. 

The young men had an arduous week of killing cattle (one for every moran- with almost 1,000 warriors present) …. And feasting… with a lot of ceremonial fire burning , dancing and a prohibition on sleep.

As usual  in Samburu culture nowadays it is 21^st century rubbing up against life as it has always been. It was not possible to tell  which moran was from the villages who live every day out on the plains with their cattle and goats - never having been near a classroom- and which  are university graduates (I met three - including a lawyer and  Lentille accountant James).  It is always this juxtaposition and easy acceptance of tradition and change that makes Kenya so vibrant and alive. 

Mama Vincent

15 years ago there would have been no piki pikis to carry water from the river for the women- yet everything else in the boma was as it must have been 200 years ago. Tiny mud huts in which you needed to duck extra low to avoid the mass of meat hanging to dry from the roofs, skins pegged to dry in front of each hut.. and so much smoke inside as tea brewed that you wonder how anyone has any eyesight left. 

The morans, including the university and high school graduates, are also in virtually the same regalia as they would have been for centuries: red ochre, beads, shukas  rungus , spears and knives. Yet mobile phones are ubiquitous- just as important for the non educated youth as the educated- how else can you find out what price cows are fetching in Kipsing or Isiolo market without walking all the way?

Another 21st century touch- Vince with his Man U bracelet.....

The other major first for this Lkoponu would have been the helicopters flying in …. Pre election Campaigns for those Oh So Busy Kenyan Politicians…… at least they now know where the pastoralist lands are… who knows perhaps they will feel compelled to follow up on some of those election promises.  I doubt any Samburu will be holding their breath very long for that one.

Plenty of beef....

Never have I seen so much meat on display….. the women dry it or cure it with oil and it will keep for a year... however be warned , if you are carrying home thirty revellers after five days of eating meat in hundred degree temperatures make sure you have an open pick up … even Samburu stomachs are not cast iron…..